MANNY_FRESH
11/09/2007, 04:02 PM
I didn't put this together but heres for the people that have questions
I put this guide together because I'm tired of seeing the SAME threads over and over of simple questions that can be answered in one simple post like this one. This thread is designed to be an end-all, tell-all type thread. Please keep in mind though, that this is still just a general guide. Lsvtec/b20vtec engines are not honda manufactured engines. With that said, there are hundreds of combinations you can build.
Also, please be aware that this guide is assembled on an intermediate level, and anyone reading this guide can perform all of the steps outlined.
Let's begin. Now, there are a few NECESSARY things to do/parts to buy when building a "reliable" lsvtec/b20vtec:
-LS/B20 (same) ARP rod bolts
-GSR/ITR (same) ARP head studs (NON-B17)
-New LS (90-01) B18a/b (for 81mm) or B20 (for 84mm) head gasket (MLS) or aftermarket for your non-OEM bore
-New ACL bearings - LS/B20 (same)
-New Hastings piston rings (or OEM)
-New OEM D/Bseries (same) valve seals
-New OEM Dohc Vtec Bseries (B16/GSR/ITR) 22T water pump
-New OEM P72 GSR/ITR timing belt (not B17)
-New OEM P72 oil pump (96+ GSR/LS/B20/ITR/B16 - all the same)
-Magnetic oil drain plug (important for break in)
-New NGK V-power BKR6E spark plugs (stock LS pistons) OR NGK V-power BKR7E spark plugs for 10.0-12.0:1 compression, or NGK V-power R5671A-8 plugs for 12.0:1+ compression
-Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator (necessary for stock ECU/injectors)
-In addition, you should replace all remaining gaskets and filters
Note- "same" means that the listed parts use the same part #'s from HONDA/ACURA.
Additionally:
-Shotpeen LS rods
-Hone big end of rods when using ARP rod bolts
-Hone cylinders (if necessary)
-Balance the entire rotating assembly
Do the above, and your motor will reward you with reliability.
Other things to consider for making power:
-A complete 2.5 inch exhaust (header, cat, exhaust piping, and muffler)
-Hondata/Passwordjdm intake manifold gasket
-Adjustable cam gears (even for stock cams, because lsvtec timing will ALWAYS be slightly off)
-OEM P30(SIR2 B16)/P73(ITR) pistons or forged 11.5:1+ pistons (forged aftermarket pistons can be run on stock rods)
-Higher lift/longer duration cams (read below for cams)
-Stiffer valve springs (read below for valve springs)
-Better intake manifold (ITR, AEBS, Skunk2, JG, Ported ITR, custom, etc.)
-Reputable Port/Polish work on the head
-Better header (SMSP, RMF, Hytech, DTR/SSR, Hytech, ANR, Rage, custom, etc.)
-310cc injectors (at a minimum)
-Sleeved to 84+mm
-extensive tuning
Also, I have included the important torque specs you should follow while assembling your hybrid motor:
Fuel filter bolt - 25 ft/lbs
Tensioner pulley bolt - 40 ft/lbs
Crank pulley bolt - 130 ft/lbs
Cam gear bolts - 41 ft/lbs
Exhaust manifold/Header to cylinder head nuts/bolts - 27 ft/lbs
Intake manifold to Cylinder head nuts/bolts - 18 ft/lbs
Throttle body to intake manifold nuts/bolts - 16 ft/lbs
Cylinder head bolts (OEM) - 22 ft/lbs (first), 63 ft/lbs (second) (please see below for ARP's)
Rocker arm locking nuts - 14 ft/lbs
Camshaft holder plate bolts (12mm) - 20 ft/lbs
Cam caps (10mm) - 7.2 ft/lbs
Oil pan to block nuts/bolts - 8.7 ft/lbs
Oil drain plug - 33 ft/lbs
Oil pickup tube to block/oil pump - 8 ft/lbs
Windage tray bolts - 8 ft/lbs
Flywheel to block bolts - 76 ft/lbs
Pressure plate to flywheel bolts - 19 ft/lbs
Main bearing caps - 56 ft/lbs
Rod bearing caps - 23 ft/lbs (Refer to ARP's instructions for ARP rod bolts)
Oil pump to block (12mm) - 17 ft/lbs
Oil pump to block (10mm) - 8 ft/lbs
Water pump to block bolts - 8.7 ft/lbs
Thermostat to block bolts - 8.7 ft/lbs
I put this guide together because I'm tired of seeing the SAME threads over and over of simple questions that can be answered in one simple post like this one. This thread is designed to be an end-all, tell-all type thread. Please keep in mind though, that this is still just a general guide. Lsvtec/b20vtec engines are not honda manufactured engines. With that said, there are hundreds of combinations you can build.
Also, please be aware that this guide is assembled on an intermediate level, and anyone reading this guide can perform all of the steps outlined.
Let's begin. Now, there are a few NECESSARY things to do/parts to buy when building a "reliable" lsvtec/b20vtec:
-LS/B20 (same) ARP rod bolts
-GSR/ITR (same) ARP head studs (NON-B17)
-New LS (90-01) B18a/b (for 81mm) or B20 (for 84mm) head gasket (MLS) or aftermarket for your non-OEM bore
-New ACL bearings - LS/B20 (same)
-New Hastings piston rings (or OEM)
-New OEM D/Bseries (same) valve seals
-New OEM Dohc Vtec Bseries (B16/GSR/ITR) 22T water pump
-New OEM P72 GSR/ITR timing belt (not B17)
-New OEM P72 oil pump (96+ GSR/LS/B20/ITR/B16 - all the same)
-Magnetic oil drain plug (important for break in)
-New NGK V-power BKR6E spark plugs (stock LS pistons) OR NGK V-power BKR7E spark plugs for 10.0-12.0:1 compression, or NGK V-power R5671A-8 plugs for 12.0:1+ compression
-Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator (necessary for stock ECU/injectors)
-In addition, you should replace all remaining gaskets and filters
Note- "same" means that the listed parts use the same part #'s from HONDA/ACURA.
Additionally:
-Shotpeen LS rods
-Hone big end of rods when using ARP rod bolts
-Hone cylinders (if necessary)
-Balance the entire rotating assembly
Do the above, and your motor will reward you with reliability.
Other things to consider for making power:
-A complete 2.5 inch exhaust (header, cat, exhaust piping, and muffler)
-Hondata/Passwordjdm intake manifold gasket
-Adjustable cam gears (even for stock cams, because lsvtec timing will ALWAYS be slightly off)
-OEM P30(SIR2 B16)/P73(ITR) pistons or forged 11.5:1+ pistons (forged aftermarket pistons can be run on stock rods)
-Higher lift/longer duration cams (read below for cams)
-Stiffer valve springs (read below for valve springs)
-Better intake manifold (ITR, AEBS, Skunk2, JG, Ported ITR, custom, etc.)
-Reputable Port/Polish work on the head
-Better header (SMSP, RMF, Hytech, DTR/SSR, Hytech, ANR, Rage, custom, etc.)
-310cc injectors (at a minimum)
-Sleeved to 84+mm
-extensive tuning
Also, I have included the important torque specs you should follow while assembling your hybrid motor:
Fuel filter bolt - 25 ft/lbs
Tensioner pulley bolt - 40 ft/lbs
Crank pulley bolt - 130 ft/lbs
Cam gear bolts - 41 ft/lbs
Exhaust manifold/Header to cylinder head nuts/bolts - 27 ft/lbs
Intake manifold to Cylinder head nuts/bolts - 18 ft/lbs
Throttle body to intake manifold nuts/bolts - 16 ft/lbs
Cylinder head bolts (OEM) - 22 ft/lbs (first), 63 ft/lbs (second) (please see below for ARP's)
Rocker arm locking nuts - 14 ft/lbs
Camshaft holder plate bolts (12mm) - 20 ft/lbs
Cam caps (10mm) - 7.2 ft/lbs
Oil pan to block nuts/bolts - 8.7 ft/lbs
Oil drain plug - 33 ft/lbs
Oil pickup tube to block/oil pump - 8 ft/lbs
Windage tray bolts - 8 ft/lbs
Flywheel to block bolts - 76 ft/lbs
Pressure plate to flywheel bolts - 19 ft/lbs
Main bearing caps - 56 ft/lbs
Rod bearing caps - 23 ft/lbs (Refer to ARP's instructions for ARP rod bolts)
Oil pump to block (12mm) - 17 ft/lbs
Oil pump to block (10mm) - 8 ft/lbs
Water pump to block bolts - 8.7 ft/lbs
Thermostat to block bolts - 8.7 ft/lbs