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Old 03/28/2012, 03:29 PM   #1
bossmanrandy
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Default DIY Rattle Can paint job

So since i haven't been able to do anything to my car for the last past 3-4 months, i thought i do a little project of painting my own LIP again since its been so nice out in the midwest. Please don't take me as a professional painter because iam far from it but these steps that i did, did help me make my paint job look professional. So let the DIY began!

Things you'll need is:
300-400 grit Sand paper
1000-2000 grit Sand paper
Primer/ Primer Filler
Paint that Matches your color of car
Clear Coat
Rubbing compound
Polishing pad or a buffer

So what i did first is took off my lip off my car and just sanded it down with 300-400 grit paper intill all the scratches and paint was smooth. I didn't go down all the way down to the fiber glass, i just sanded it down enough that the primer will catch onto the paint. Rub or glaze your hand across the lip/ item to see if everything smooth, if not keep on sanding


Once everything looks good with sanding, go ahead and wash down your product your painting. Let it dry for atleast 30-1 hr or use a blow dryer to get into all the lil tight space that water may be hiding. Once all the drying is done, its time for the primer/ primer filler. The primer filler will fill in the small chips and scratches you may have on your product or you can just use bondo filler as well but my chips were small so primer filler did the job. Make sure to shake the can well before painting, Hold the can about 6-10 inches away from the product and spray left to right. First coat of primer should be a light and the rest should be more heavier. I did about 3 coats.


Let the primer dry for about 2-6 hrs depending on what kind of primer you used. I always have a issue with getting stuff on the primer so i went ahead and wet sanded it with 1000 grit sand paper and soapy water to get all the dust off. It doesn't take much to take off the dust so you wont have to wet sand much.


So after everything looks good, its time for the Base Coat. I have a friend works at Sherwin Williams automotive and he got the paint mixed up for me and put into a can. Due to mother nature and etc your paint maybe different from how it is when it was brand new. It may have gotten lighter from sun so make sure you choose the right match for your car.

So just like how you did the primer put on a light Coat of your base and then try to cover most of the area on your item with out putting to much on at one time, eventually you'll cover it all. Depending on temp and your paint you purchased, allow it to fully dry each time you put a coat on otherwise you'll get runs and then your FUCKED. After you think you have enough paint on for your base, let it dry for about 6hrs or over night. I used my one whole rattle can and it had about 7oz of paint and etc in it.


Your base coat is going to look like shiiiiiiiiizzzz and it will probably have orange peel. Leave it and spray clear coat first.

Once your base coat is dry, its time for your Clear Coat. I used clear that my friend gave me but i think all clear should work fine. From what i read, your suppose to spray on heavy amounts of clear so dont be shy, just follow the same procedures as you did with the primer and base coat. I used one whole can.


I let the Clear dry for a FULL 24 hrs, some may say let dry for 2-3 months but 24 hrs is fine for me. After the Clear is dry, its time for Wet Sanding, I used 1000 grit paper. I sanded down my lip intill it was a dull look. You'll know your done Wet Sanding a area once you see no more orange peel. You'll know you wet sanded to much once you see your soapy water turn the color of your paint. Alot of people go over the 1000 grit paper with 2000 paper but thats only because it'll be easier to buff it out. Onces your finish your product should look dull like this


Time for buffing! I got this buffer from autozone last year, works great but i wish i had the professional one with different speeds and pads. I purchased the Meguiars compound at advance auto parts but iam pretty sure you can get it at any auto store. If you dont have a buffer, then you can purchase a polishing pad and do it by hand. Buff intill you can no longer see any fine scratches from wet sanding.


Eventually you'll see results. You'll see faster results from a buffer then doing it by hand


Almost all done!


Perfect!!


let me know what you guys think and if you guys have questions, let me know!

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Old 03/28/2012, 05:38 PM   #2
ChunKy
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

looks nice!


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Old 03/28/2012, 05:55 PM   #3
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

How much would you charge me to do this for me? I have no skill what so ever at painting, always runs, ill buy materials too... Just need to know exactly what i need. lol


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Old 03/28/2012, 06:43 PM   #4
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChunKy View Post
looks nice!
Thanks Bro!!


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Originally Posted by remix Rick View Post
How much would you charge me to do this for me? I have no skill what so ever at painting, always runs, ill buy materials too... Just need to know exactly what i need. lol
I suggest you take it to a shop to do it professionally. Only reason why i did mine is because i figured i will be repainting my lip again so i dont want to spend much money and i know how. Sorry bud but i rather much not do it, that's why i put it up on the DIY section.

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Old 03/28/2012, 06:53 PM   #5
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

its not that hard ricky, especially if your gonna scrape it up anyways


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Old 03/29/2012, 02:43 AM   #6
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

I've never seen anyone go through so much work when rattle canning a lip before. I'm ridiculously impressed with how well this turned out, can't even tell it was a can you did this with. Looks like it was done with a gun. Fanominal work!


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Old 03/29/2012, 10:35 AM   #7
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

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I've never seen anyone go through so much work when rattle canning a lip before. I'm ridiculously impressed with how well this turned out, can't even tell it was a can you did this with. Looks like it was done with a gun. Fanominal work!
Thanks alot!, i appreciate the support. Ya it does take time and patient to do the job so thats step 1 you have to do before getting into the project. Considering i know i will bang and scrap up my lip again its pretty much worth it though, i only paid 7.50 for the paint and 7.00 bucks for the clear so over all its was basically a 20 dollar job! On average a place will charge you 150 bucks or more to just paint it.

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Old 03/30/2012, 12:01 PM   #8
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

looks legit! good job!!

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Old 03/30/2012, 01:34 PM   #9
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

Nice work.


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Old 03/30/2012, 05:10 PM   #10
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

def don't match, but its shiny, and looks good for spray paint.


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Old 03/31/2012, 08:28 AM   #11
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

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def don't match, but its shiny, and looks good for spray paint.
How doesn't it match? Are we looking at the same pic?!

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Old 04/01/2012, 02:58 PM   #12
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

Hell of a job I gotta do that to my front bumper

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Old 04/06/2012, 01:23 PM   #13
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

That looks great! nice work...

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Old 04/11/2012, 07:28 PM   #14
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

good job looks great

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Old 04/12/2012, 01:28 PM   #15
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

Best rattle can job I've seen. Nice thorough walkthrough.
Thanks for sharing!


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Old 04/15/2012, 03:00 PM   #16
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Old 04/15/2012, 08:51 PM   #17
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

NICE MAN


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Old 04/21/2012, 04:54 AM   #18
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

bad ass man looks great


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Old 04/23/2012, 09:46 PM   #19
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

Great job this is where I lack in as well..


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Old 04/25/2012, 01:07 AM   #20
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

Thanks alot everyone!! The positive comments are always nice to read

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Old 05/02/2012, 06:24 PM   #21
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Default Re: DIY Rattle Can paint job

Quote:
Originally Posted by bossmanrandy View Post
So since i haven't been able to do anything to my car for the last past 3-4 months, i thought i do a little project of painting my own LIP again since its been so nice out in the midwest. Please don't take me as a professional painter because iam far from it but these steps that i did, did help me make my paint job look professional. So let the DIY began!

Things you'll need is:
300-400 grit Sand paper
1000-2000 grit Sand paper
Primer/ Primer Filler
Paint that Matches your color of car
Clear Coat
Rubbing compound
Polishing pad or a buffer

So what i did first is took off my lip off my car and just sanded it down with 300-400 grit paper intill all the scratches and paint was smooth. I didn't go down all the way down to the fiber glass, i just sanded it down enough that the primer will catch onto the paint. Rub or glaze your hand across the lip/ item to see if everything smooth, if not keep on sanding


Once everything looks good with sanding, go ahead and wash down your product your painting. Let it dry for atleast 30-1 hr or use a blow dryer to get into all the lil tight space that water may be hiding. Once all the drying is done, its time for the primer/ primer filler. The primer filler will fill in the small chips and scratches you may have on your product or you can just use bondo filler as well but my chips were small so primer filler did the job. Make sure to shake the can well before painting, Hold the can about 6-10 inches away from the product and spray left to right. First coat of primer should be a light and the rest should be more heavier. I did about 3 coats.


Let the primer dry for about 2-6 hrs depending on what kind of primer you used. I always have a issue with getting stuff on the primer so i went ahead and wet sanded it with 1000 grit sand paper and soapy water to get all the dust off. It doesn't take much to take off the dust so you wont have to wet sand much.


So after everything looks good, its time for the Base Coat. I have a friend works at Sherwin Williams automotive and he got the paint mixed up for me and put into a can. Due to mother nature and etc your paint maybe different from how it is when it was brand new. It may have gotten lighter from sun so make sure you choose the right match for your car.

So just like how you did the primer put on a light Coat of your base and then try to cover most of the area on your item with out putting to much on at one time, eventually you'll cover it all. Depending on temp and your paint you purchased, allow it to fully dry each time you put a coat on otherwise you'll get runs and then your FUCKED. After you think you have enough paint on for your base, let it dry for about 6hrs or over night. I used my one whole rattle can and it had about 7oz of paint and etc in it.


Your base coat is going to look like shiiiiiiiiizzzz and it will probably have orange peel. Leave it and spray clear coat first.

Once your base coat is dry, its time for your Clear Coat. I used clear that my friend gave me but i think all clear should work fine. From what i read, your suppose to spray on heavy amounts of clear so dont be shy, just follow the same procedures as you did with the primer and base coat. I used one whole can.


I let the Clear dry for a FULL 24 hrs, some may say let dry for 2-3 months but 24 hrs is fine for me. After the Clear is dry, its time for Wet Sanding, I used 1000 grit paper. I sanded down my lip intill it was a dull look. You'll know your done Wet Sanding a area once you see no more orange peel. You'll know you wet sanded to much once you see your soapy water turn the color of your paint. Alot of people go over the 1000 grit paper with 2000 paper but thats only because it'll be easier to buff it out. Onces your finish your product should look dull like this


Time for buffing! I got this buffer from autozone last year, works great but i wish i had the professional one with different speeds and pads. I purchased the Meguiars compound at advance auto parts but iam pretty sure you can get it at any auto store. If you dont have a buffer, then you can purchase a polishing pad and do it by hand. Buff intill you can no longer see any fine scratches from wet sanding.


Eventually you'll see results. You'll see faster results from a buffer then doing it by hand


Almost all done!


Perfect!!


let me know what you guys think and if you guys have questions, let me know!
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