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Old 07/28/2014, 02:15 PM   #1
The Laser
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Default 91 mazda miata

Asking/Offering Price:$2700
Email Address/Phone Number (optional):
Zip Code: 50036
Pics: in description
Name:gabe


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Year: 1991
Make:Mazda
Model: Miata
Mileage: 176,xxx
Title Status: clean
Color Exterior/Interior: black/black
Transmission: 5-speed
Drivetrain: RWD

Item Description: Hello. I am looking to sell my 1991 Mazda miata. Runs and drives great and is perfect for a winter beater or auto-x/LeMons project. I, Myself, have raced it last year and ran like a champ, even broke into the 1:20's on bald HP tires at the marshalltown go-kart track, so has tons of potential with simply tires and upgraded suspension. Comes with a plethora of parts with receipts for most everything. Has a lot of extra vehicle parts as well that came with when I bought it. Also has a lower mileage engine installed from 2 POs ago. Some replacement parts are NOT installed yet, but list includes:
NEW clutch kit and flywheel
New clutch overhaul kit from 949 racing which includes new, OEM, master and slave clutch cylinders, SS braided shorty clutch line, and new synthetic hydraulic fluid
New maser gasket set
New exhaust gaskets
New front and rear main seals
New fab9 coil on plug kit with tach adaptor (Can't get to work properly. possibly needs a better wire to tap into or MS)
New Robbins canvas panorama top-Installed and have problems. if you have your own top to use i will just send it back for a refund and lower price, otherwise i will exchange it for something else and price will stay the same.
Poly bushings-rear lowers and uppers installed
Grease-zerks for bushings (makes lubing easier instead of taking them apart)
New factory camber bolts
Poly steering rack bushings-installed 2 months ago
PCV valve
O2 sensor
Thermostat and gasket
Steering rack bellows
New rear lower control arm bolts

What's been replaced within the last year:
Battery
Fuel filter
Plugs and wires (both NGK OEM)
Ball joints
Tie rod ends
Short shifter
Momo start seat (may keep)
Thompson air horn with button (stock horn wires were completely cut out. Sounds great and is loud)
Fluids were flushed after I bought it but will need flushed anyway if you plan to rebuild the engine.
Replaced one of the rear upper control arms with a good used one and the left rear caliper with reman.
Replaced alternator belt.

The bad:
Will need new ball joints. Tried buying moog lowers but they started packing cheap Korean ones in their boxes. Suggest going with OE for lowers and moog for uppers. Uppers need to be pressed out PROFESSIONALLY. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself at home as you could break the control arm. New control arms come with new ball joints, but getting them pressed instead will save you money.
Needs new tie rod ends. They are the ones I got with the car when I bought it. I think they are cheap ones, so would recommend OE part.
Has weight reduction done. As in, no PS, no AC, no radio, and rust. The car is light enough that it feels natural without PS and even on hot days, the top down is enough to cool you off on the highway. Has rust on rear wheel behind passenger the worst.
Exhaust needs redone. Is cut off at axle but doesn't bleed into the cabin that much, if at all. Also needs cat replaced while you're at it.
No top currently. It was trashed when I got it and tried putting the new one on myself and got washed out from constant rain. Be a good idea to replace window seals. IL motorsports sells a complete set, minus front windshield seal, for under $200. 2 pieces alone from factory are well over that much.
Hood is screwed from not having the hood pins on before driving it. Wanted to replace the hood anyway so it wasn't a big deal for me.
Wires are tucked. Makes the engine bay a LOT more accessible but everything is now in the cabin under dash, making it difficult to trace problems.
Has no gauge hood. Not a huge deal but the sticker on top of gauge cluster gets annoying at time reflecting in window.
Paint is custom. Is chalkboard paint and makes it a rolling art piece, but needs a lot more coats to be decent.
Needs new shocks. Was saving fora flyin miata set of coil overs but even a set of GR-2s would be enough to get it back to being even more comfortable. Current shocks aren't leaking, they're just old and I've raced on them.
Has oil leak. This is what the gasket set is for.
Frame rail is bent on drivers side near front. 2 POs ago had it slammed and scraped the piss out of the rails. Luckily the engine and subframe were unharmed. Could have a shop cut and weld new ones in then put on flyin miata's butterfly brace set. This was my original plan.
Drivers window regulator doesn't work and passenger is a little shifty. They're manual windows and are easy to convert to power windows. Company sells a complete kit with all new parts for $400. Regulators alone go for over 1/2 that price.
Pop-up lights don't work. One did but disconnected it to leave lights on without fully opening the door. Now the connectors are corroded. Driers side needs wiring figured out as that one doesn't open, but motor works for sure. Could possibly splice into passenger side as they come from the same switch.
No airbag or wiring. Again, 2 POs ago.
Hazard switch needs replaced or repaired. Works very intermittently but never stays on. Company makes replacement switches that turn them into toggle switches.
No rear bumper. The support is gone so there's nothing to bolt the cover on to. Zip ties will work for a bit but you will need some high-strength ones.
Locks are wonky. They are hard to turn when the car is locked but I've never had any problems.

All-in-all is a fun car despite all the problems it has and has been reliable for me. This is a great car to get into beginner racing/auto-xing and even with some basic mods can be very competitive. Price is $2000 OBSO. I know this may seem high, but the top and COP set were $850 together for those 2 parts, and it comes with a bunch of other parts. Cash always talks. Clean title as well.

Pics in this album, it has since been cleaned out
http://s104.photobucket.com/user/Sep...?sort=3&page=1

Last edited by The Laser; 08/29/2014 at 07:16 AM.

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Old 08/29/2014, 07:16 AM   #2
The Laser
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Default Re: 91 mazda miata

Bump. Recently purchased a 92 parts car that has a lot of good parts on it (some I've already switched over). Aside from fenders, is rust free, but paint is in bad shape and has large dent on drivers rear quarter panel. Has salvage title, not sure from what, but was old it was clean title when I got it and didn't say so on title. Plan is to take all the good components from each car and put them into the 92, but will need A LOT of time and effort.


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Old 10/03/2014, 12:05 PM   #3
The Laser
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Default Re: 91 mazda miata

Bump


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Old 10/27/2014, 06:29 AM   #4
The Laser
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Default Re: 91 mazda miata

Bump. Just got a pair of upper ball joints, front and rear sway bar bushings, radiator hoses, and new cap.


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Old 01/25/2015, 07:30 PM   #5
one-cam
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Default Re: 91 mazda miata

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Laser View Post
Bump. Just got a pair of upper ball joints, front and rear sway bar bushings, radiator hoses, and new cap.
Why dont you just part this miata out it looks bad


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