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#1 |
Vinyl Specialist
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South DSM,IA
Posts: 2,868
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OOOhhhhhh Snap
![]() ![]() So here is where I come in to help you guys out..........my services for this job is very affordable. For those of you not daring enough, I am at your service to get them done and get you back on the road to enjoy. I would like to thank Ryan W. (RSXS84) for letting us use his vehicle as our install subject!! He bought the KONI kit from someone awhile back but can guide ya in the right direction as to where to get them. The RSX already had a 2" drop using Ksport springs and also had camber bolts to install, but had a rear camber setup already in place. Soo, I will start with the basic tools needed........There are some specialty ones I used which made this job a snap, but most places around will have the smaller versions. (((WARNING: ALL WORK DONE ON THIS DIY IS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND WE ARE NOT HELD LIABLE FOR DAMAGE OR INJURY. ONCE YOU HAVE STARTED THE FRONT SETUP FOR THESE THE PROCESS IS NOT REVERSABLE!!!!))) Tools Needed: Torque Wrench Allen head sockets (if you have non, go buy some at the store...lol) Wratchet wrench Wrench extension 14mm wrench/socket 10mm wrench/socket 12mm wrench/socket 17mm wrench/socket Few bungee cords Medium Strength Loctite Sawzall with metal cutting blades Digital caliper or measuring tape Impact gun or just man muscles...lol... to get suspension bolts off Jack & jack stands some type of pan drill & drill bits Spring compressor (any available or just get a hold of me) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ![]() For starters, just jack up the car as usual etc. etc. and take the wheels off. Pop the hood open since you have to have access to the three bolts on top to remove the suspension. Once you have everything set, it is time to remove the front suspension....if you didn't already know, the koni shocks will essentially fit inside your stock setup by removing the oem piston inside. Rear suspension is basic and will have no modifying done other then cutting bump stops. Here is what you'll first encounter........the front suspension, start by taking cotter pin off the tie rod end so you can loosen the nut on it. Once the nut is off, without stricking the boot, hit the arm a few times until it lets ya take the tie rod end off. ![]() After that take the three bolts off the bottom, one being the bolt for the brake line.......marked on the picture. Make sure you use some of the bungee cords to hold the rotor/caliper assembly, you don't want it all hanging from the brake lines. ![]()
Last edited by importsusa; 05/15/2010 at 08:44 PM.
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#2 |
Vinyl Specialist
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South DSM,IA
Posts: 2,868
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Next step after those is to take the three bolts on top so that the suspension can be taken out. Next step is to get the suspension taken apart by using your spring compressor or any other way that SAFELY takes them off. Once the spring is compressed and the top nut is out...........slide everything off and set aside. The pictures below show what it will all look like taken apart...........do not discard anything yet.
![]() ![]() ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Now comes the part that some turn away from and others move on through. As I said before once this process starts there is no stopping...once it is cut the OEM suspension is no more. Here are the next steps in prepping the OEM setup to accept the koni struts. You'll first start by drilling a hole approximately 3/8 in diameter.....you can use the bottom of the koni strut to figure out drill bit size, it has a setup that accepts an allen bolt (which I will cover in the next few steps). ![]() Now to mark the hole in the bottom (which has to be centered) you can use the mark that was left by the milling process in the factory. Pictured below ![]() |
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#3 |
Vinyl Specialist
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South DSM,IA
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Once that is marked.........take the drill bit and drill and slowly drill the hole on the bottom.......TRY TO REMEMBER THAT THERE IS FLUID INSIDE!!! Once the hole is drilled it is time to drain out the fluid.........get the pan and let the fluid flow out, you may need to slowly pump the strut so the rest of the fluid comes out.
![]() ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now we move onto marking where the strut needs to be cut and cutting..........this step can be easy and hard for those with no proper tools or hand/eye coordination. Begin by marking the strut at the measurements listed on the picture (if using a digital caliper it'll be 40mm or 1.574in or better yet 1 5/8 using a measuring tape). What I did that was a true helper was use the caliper as a marking tool. You basically scratch the measurement while spinning the strut around and keeping the other part of the caliper on the top....just as it is pictured below. Then once I have the mark, I took electrical red tape and followed the line around, this when you know not to go past the top of the tape as you cut around it....much like the next picture shows.' ![]() ![]() Once you slowly and nicely cut around these make sure to remove the tape when done and discard the internal piston........that piece is no longer used. Now I did noticed I am missing a few pics but if there is any doubt from anyone I can try finding them. The ones I am missing show what the Koni strut looks like and how it just slides in. Make sure the strut goes in as far as possibly since there will be an allen bolt that will get it inside the OEM setup and keep it in place. The picture below is the strut inside the OEM setup and the allen head that was supplied...........make sure you use medium strength Loctite so the bolt doesn't decide to come loose at some point. You want to use an 8mm allen head socket with the torque wrench and torque this to 55ft. lbs. ((once it is torqued in the shock is pretty much in place.)) ![]() Once that is done, slide the sleeve the kit comes with over the strut and cut part of the OEM setup as pictured below. The rubber piece also has a bit of an inner lip which will stop just over the OEM part you cut out. ![]() ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by importsusa; 05/15/2010 at 06:58 PM.
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#4 |
Vinyl Specialist
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South DSM,IA
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Now in Ryan's case his front dust cover had just a bit too much wear and tear on it.....we still ended up having to use it because at the time Acura was already closed and obtaining one would of meant having to wait longer then usual. We do recommend that before doing this install you check the ones in your vehicle....if damaged, then try getting them ahead of time before you even come close to starting this project.
![]() Once you are done with getting all put together........time to go in reverse and compressing the spring, etc. ![]() Once the strut assembly is put back together just slide it back into place.............I opted to clean it up a little and add some rust prevention to it, which turned out pretty clean as you can tell!! ![]() ![]() Now above it shows the bolts and nut that need to go back into place.............below Ryan also added a camber bolt so that the shop doing the alignment can set camber. The other bolts from the beginning of the install will also need to go back and torqued to specs. On Hondas though toe is the key and anyone doubting this contact Gabe Bauman..........he will school ya on toe, camber and caster. ![]() ![]() ![]() THIS PROCESS IS DONE ON BOTH SIDES OF COURSE AND ONCE DONE THE NEXT STEP STARTS!! REAR SUSPENSION.............. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
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#5 |
Vinyl Specialist
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Location: South DSM,IA
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Now the rear suspension FTW!!! LOL
here we go............. As far as the rear goes most of the tricky stuff is inside the vehicles rear panels. If you are an RSX owner you know how annoying those panels get to be, I also had just a little trouble with them, but nothing that could stop this little guy... ![]() Once you push the rear seat forward and get the small clips off etc. just pull the panel where the seat clips into forward to give you enough space for a 14mm and a 10mm wrench. Undo the small holder that keeps the wiring into place (colored green) loosen up the 10mm just a few turns and take out the rest. The idea is to keep the plate in place but still be able to move it out of the way without having to completely remove it. There are 4- 14mm bolts to take out.....1- 10mm to loosen but not take out..........and the green tab. pics below show just what I mean......... ![]() ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Once you move the bracket out of the way (which you can still see in the picture below) it is time to loosen up the nuts on the upper part of the strut and take them out. ![]() The next steps are pretty much the same all the way across as they were for the fronts. You compress the spring, undo the tops and take apart. Now, there are steps I will not show here because they will be depicted on your instructions that came with the Koni setup, make sure you follow them thoroughly. The pictures below are two of the main things to remember to do before putting them back together. This one deals with the new sleeve that needsa to be put in place of the old one. If you don't do this the new Koni setup will not fit...........make sure both rubber bushings go back in the same way they came out. ![]() This one below deals with the bump stops...........these need to be cut right down the center. the part I am hlding will be discarded and the other goes back into the shock......please note the directio asd well. ![]() -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Once everything is back together, re-compress the shock and put everything back together. Now to slide these back in make sure you get them into place and put both nuts on the top to hold them up in place. To be able to get them into the lower arm you will need to get your jack, a 1/2" long socket and extension......NOW, here is the tricky and unsafe aspect of this, you will need to line up these things below the shock and slowly jack the shock into place. The picture below shows you just how I do these...........simple for me but could be dangerous for someone else ((SO PLEASSEEEE HAVE SOME CAUTION)). Once you jack this into place the kit supplies you with two washers that are placed on each side of the shock. Line up the washers and the holes and get the bolt into place.....torque to specs. ![]() Once this is all set and done.............just put your wheels back on.........torque to specs and make like a fat kid and roll out!! LOL The very last step now is to get the vehicle aligned so that everything works together........it will be totally up to you to set the dampening on it by using the instructions provided by the kit. ONCE AGAIN YOU HAVE COMPLETED A JOB THAT OTHERS DARE NOT GO THROUGH.......If you're just not sure about any of it then please feel free to contact us for a quote!!! We promise not to dissapoint you in any way!! Thank you all.......and happy wrenching!! ![]() ![]()
Last edited by importsusa; 05/15/2010 at 08:57 PM.
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#6 |
JDM Soldier
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: DSM
Posts: 173
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i gotta get the first post in on this.....Again great job Rod! Everything turned out better than i could have hoped
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#7 | |
Vinyl Specialist
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South DSM,IA
Posts: 2,868
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#8 |
my mexico
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: dead grass land
Posts: 4,365
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rodnie did it again!
![]() __________________ blah |
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#9 |
Vinyl Specialist
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South DSM,IA
Posts: 2,868
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#10 |
Work
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Boise, Idaho.
Posts: 1,186
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#11 |
Vinyl Specialist
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South DSM,IA
Posts: 2,868
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Yup yup, it always helps and the fact that i got it is the reason why I make it so affordable for all you guys. I benefit from it and I want you all to benefit as well!!
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#12 |
JDM Soldier
![]() Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Cedar Rapids IA
Posts: 143
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looks great I am considering this route
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#13 |
Newbie
![]() Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: dsm
Posts: 2
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--Man that on bad ass rsx
![]() __________________ JUSIC MUJO |
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#14 |
DR. DIY
![]() Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: DSM, IA
Posts: 4,314
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![]() __________________ FOR SALE> http://www.jdmcity.com/showthread.php?t=3858 CLICK IT> http://gabusface.blogspot.com/ PS: I cut holes in fenders...pm me. |
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#15 | |
Vinyl Specialist
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South DSM,IA
Posts: 2,868
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#16 | |
DR. DIY
![]() Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: DSM, IA
Posts: 4,314
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__________________ FOR SALE> http://www.jdmcity.com/showthread.php?t=3858 CLICK IT> http://gabusface.blogspot.com/ PS: I cut holes in fenders...pm me. |
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#17 |
Vinyl Specialist
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South DSM,IA
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Been there and done that too....except on this one I was not about to crank out the skil saw......lol but yeah, have used that technique as well.
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#18 |
AWFD
![]() Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: DMI
Posts: 1,139
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Dang rodnie.
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#19 |
JDM Soldier
![]() Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Linn county, Iowa
Posts: 372
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So this is pretty much the kit he bought? http://www.racinglab.com/koni-sport-kit-03.html
Whats the Difference in ride Height and Handling? Nice write up! ![]() |
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#20 | |
Vinyl Specialist
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South DSM,IA
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Thie ride quality for him improved from stock to the adjustables. He was having a lit of unwanted bounce which all went away with the new setup. His handling improved also since he can adjust the shocks/struts and either stiffen or soften the dampening. If he would of gone with ground control coilovers, autocross would of been in his future. I do believe he was planning on selling the setup because he is moving out of state and wanted to go back to stock. And thanks, i do try to educate as much as possible. |
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#21 |
Vinyl Specialist
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Location: South DSM,IA
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Bringing this back from the dead...lol.....for one of the members here who just bought an RSX............
Here ya go buddy........Enjoy!! ![]() |
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#22 |
JDM Soldier
![]() Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tempe
Posts: 360
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Haha thanks. So if I did this and wanted to go back to stock, what would I have to buy? The whole part that holds the shock cylinder thing?
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#23 | |
Vinyl Specialist
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South DSM,IA
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If you are planning on doing what we did with the Del Sol, steer away from the D2 setup and go with Tein......just much easier to set up when you have to drop or raise it. I know everyone loves the D2 setups but they are just a pain in my ass to raise and lower properly....lol |
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#24 |
JDM Soldier
![]() Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tempe
Posts: 360
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Alright well that setup sounds good, I guess I was just "shocked" about modifying it. Pun intended haha.
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#25 | |
Vinyl Specialist
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Location: South DSM,IA
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![]() I can still retain all the stock qualities if you planned on putting it back to stock but the shock itself would still be in there. If you know for a fact you won't put it to stock form and would keep coilovers on I can always cut some of that bottom lip on the stock shock. If i find a picture i will post what it looks like!! ![]() |
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