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Old 06/29/2006, 12:17 PM   #1
2point
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Default DIY CHEAP Paint Job

I never did this. This thread is for reference only

This is the $50-100 paint job for your whole car.

Scroll down to this guys post
69chargeryeehaa - orange charger under his name
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

Just some more posts and proof it works
http://forums.club4ag.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=133867

Products and colors
http://rustoleum.com/Product.asp?frm...8&SBL=1&dds=16

These are posts from 69chargeryeehaa
Post 1
here's how i painted my car for about $50, it's actually very easy and the results are amazing. First off, get a can of tremclad real orange (or what ever color u want) in the can, not spray, yes tremclad, it is a acrylic/enamel paint which is very durable. next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow it to be painted over bare metal. next, after prepping the car get a small 4" professional FOAM rollers, it's tiny and has one end rounded off, and the other cut straight, and is a very high density foam. u also need a jug of mineral spirits to thin the paint. The thing i really like about this is that there's no mess, no tapeing the whole car, just key areas, and u can do it in your garage, since your not spraying there is virtually no dust in the air, just clean your garage first, also it does'nt really smell at all, dries overnight and it super tough paint. also it you decide to paint the car professionally later, just prep and paint, there's no need to strip the tremclad. i have done this to a few cars, and i can say it works amazing, u just have to be paitient. next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker. get out the roller and paint away, don't get the paint shaked when u buy it, enamel is stirred, otherwise you'll have bubbles in the paint for a week!!! after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand. i painted the charger using a can since your not spraying the car u use all the paint and not spray 50% in the air, use progressivly finer sand paper each time. it's not really that much work, cause u can stop and start any time, u can do just a door, or the hood, ect. do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat, wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u, depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing. laugh if you want, but for $50 ($30 for paint, about $20 for rollers, sand paper, ect...) it really looks good. also you can do these steps overnight, paint one evening and by morning u can wet sand. i have personally done alot of painting, mostly single stage acrylic enamel, and i've sprayed several cars in my garage with really good professional results, just it stinks, it's a real pain to do, easy to make a mistake, messy, and expensive. The tremclad is awesome paint, the "real orange" is an amazing hemi orange, and almost looks like it has some perl in the sun, awesome color right out of the can. I used this technique on my 1974 beetle also, here are the results:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1.../Picture10.jpg
the car before:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/IM000475.jpg
another after pic:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC00164.jpg
here is a car i sprayed (71 beetle, midnight blue metalic):
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC00194.jpg
here is the car before (71 beetle):
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/Picture1.jpg

here's a few pics of the charger done:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC02764.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC02769.jpg

well that's my 2 cents worth, sorry for the long post. i was borred lol
i painted the orange beetle in 1999, and it still looks like the day i painted it, the 71 blue beetle i painted in 2000, and built the car for my dad, i used the same paint on my charger, maybe one day i'll spring for a good paint job, prepping is 90% of the work, stripping the car, sanding, ect.....painting is overrated!!!
So if you have TIME, then i'd say go for it, the worst that could happen is that it does'nt turn out and your out $50, but if your paitient, and expriement with lets say just the trunk pannel and if you like it do the whole car, if not just get it done by someone else for $4000. i don't know about you guys, but i would rather spend the $4000 on other parts like getting the mechanics sorted out and new chrome, cause when u have really nice paint and crappy

Post 2
Yes i painted it with a "profesional" high density foam roller. The trick is in how you thin the paint, get it as thin as possible without running, and the paint "self levels" it comes out like glass, wet sanding just makes it better, it all depends on how much time u have. i have sprayed a few cars in my garage with a single stage acrylic enamel and it's a pain, messy, stinks, ect... the tremclad is almost odorless and is really easy to work with. u can paint one day, wetsand the next and immedieatly recoat. once you got all the coats on, just wetsand and buff with a compound, then wax and your good to go. i've done 3 cars this way and the 74 beetle i did 6yrs ago, still looks awesome. the paint is cheap like $30 a gallon, you can get it tinted to any color u like. on the charger i used about 3/4 of a can, when u spray even with a HVLP gun, u still waste about 30% of the paint that just goes in the air. Tremclad is basically rust paint, but it is the new type which is a enamal. i still strip the car of chrome, bumpers, handles, keylocks, basically everything, and then just tape only using tape where i might get paint on something i don't want painted. the paint is tough, like stove paint when it's done, i've spilt gas on it in like really hot weather, and it resists stone chips really well. i had to repaint a fender on the beetle like 2 yrs ago, so i just got a small can of paint 3 yrs later and the color match is exact.


Post 3
i'm up in Canada, here it's called Tremclad, in the US it would be the rustoleum or something like that, it's a rust paint, buffs really nice, but make sure it's the new stuff like a enamal, or acrylic enamal. goes right over anything and does'nt react with any old paint, right over bondo, don't use any primer, just the paint. on a car i used to have i had it professionally painted 4 yrs after i painted it and they put a base/clear on it with no isues. it's really easy to do just be paitient, take your time, test on something first and perfect the tequnique, as a hint if you try it first you paint the surface, and then really lightly "skim" the surface with the weight of the roller only to remove any lines bubbles ect, then just leave it for a minute or two and you'll see it just "self levels" totally flat to glass. then wetsand it really fine, use a spray bottle and keep the paper really wet, finish with a 1000 grit or so and then buff with a random orbit polisher using turtle wax POLISHING compound, NOT the rubbing compound, its' to harsh. it is critical to use the proper roller, it's about 4" wide and about 1 1/2" thick, and really high density white foam. it really works and is much tougher paint than todays single stage or base clear, very hard to scratch, but easy to buff. i get compliments on my paint jobs, and they never believe how i do it.

Post 4
guys all i have to tell you is that i first painted a 85 honda crx at my cottage in 1 day, i had no money, i did like 3 coats with no sanding and it looked great, i should scan that old pic and show you!!!. The job only looks as good as the time and effort that you put into it. the paint is extreemly durable, think about it, it's used to paint over rusted metal on things like tractors, metal railings, ect... and stand the elements. it is formulated to do just that. the tequnique is critical, u have to have a "feel" for how much to thin the paint and u have to use mineral spirits, not paint thinner like varsol. I could not even imagine how well it would turn out if you sprayed it with a HVLP gun and wet sanded and polished. It does "self Level" on the sides just as it does on the flat level surfaces. Like i said before it is critical on how you thin the paint and how you apply it. i did the charger in about 3 days. i got sick of going to body shops and them telling me either they don't do classic cars and if they did want to do the car i need at least $5000 even though the car was stripped and prepped!!!! the auto painting industry is in my opinion a total rip off so if you want it done right and cheep, do it yourself!!! when the paint is thinned your barley putting on any paint with each coat, so you really need to do about 6 coats to get enough of a base so you can wet sand and polish. it took me a long time to figure out what steps to take to get awesome results. my 74 bug looks awesome even after 6 years the paint is still mint. looks like the day i did it. that paint dries FAST, so literally you can wetsand overnight. Keep in mind i know a little about painting, i've shoot a few cars with single stage enamel with professional results, but it's expensive and tedious. I used duplicolor paint, primer, reducer and primer sealer on this car:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC00194.jpg
it looked like this before paint:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/Picture1.jpg
that car was painted midnight metalic blue, and flips awesome in the sun. a very hard color to do cause it's almost black and shows every imperfection. but as you can see in the pic it came out awesome. but the materials alone (paint, reducer, primer, primer sealer) cost about $250 CDN, which was alot, never mind the work.
the "tremclad" paint is really a awesome alternetive, since your rollering it on there's no dust and you get a really clean paint job if you do it in your garage, where if you spray theres a battle with dust.
when i painted with the Tremclad i just use the paint, no primer, nothing, just the paint, right over bondo. like i mentioned before after wetsanding use a random orbit polisher and the cheapest POLISHING COMPOUND made by turtle wax, it comes in a paste in a small round flat container and it's white, allmost looks like hand cream and smells good too!!! I find that after thinning the paint with mineral spirits the paint "flashes" or dries really quickly, and after a overnight period it is completely dry, unlike automotive paint which takes up to 6 months to fully "cure" so litterally the next day you can sand, buff, polish, and wax the paint. on the charger the paint looks really good, i did not take a huge amount of time to perfect it because i really really wanted to drive it!!!. in the spring i plan on wetsanding and polishing it more, but yes it looks like the pics, really good. considering that it cost me about $50 i love it and i'm not paranoid about juicing it on a dirt road and going sideways worring about my precious paint job, i drive the car, hard and alot, after all is'nt that what they're made for? for $50 and a few days of work i can paint it again in a few years!!!! If your not good with your hands, and not a real detail person let someone else paint your car cause it can get ugly really fast!!!! if i had a shop, made a little paint booth and sprayed this stuff on and wetsanded and polished it, i'm sure i could paint show quality cars with $30 worth of paint. keep in mind this paint is really good, like i said bofore i bought a can 3 yrs later to repaint a fender on my 74 beatle and it was dead on for color match, that must tell you about the quality of the paint, i'd give you $100 if you could tell me which fender i painted on this car in person, and its' right out of the can:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC00164.jpg
keep in mind that you must still prep the car as you would with any other paint job, prepping is all the work and reflects the overall result.
i did not block sand the car just wetsand progressivly finer paper by HAND, no machine, no block nothing. using any "block" to sand i found the paper got dirty fast and got all plugged up, so do it by hand and keep it really wet, using a spray bottle in one hand and a clean bucket of water and a shammy (dollar store!!!)to clean it off to see how it looks. i prepped the car with 80, then 100, then 200, finished with a 400, did all my body work, and painted. after 2 coats (about 4hrs work for the whole car) i wetsanded with a 600, then did 2 more coats, wetsand with 800, 2 more coats and sand with a 1000-1500 and polish, followed by wax, done......

Post 5
well it just goes by "feel", theres no ratio that i could come up with because once you open the can and pour some out the next day the paint will be a bit thicker. if i had to guess i would say about 20% thinner or so? just thin enough that it does'nt run, but not too thick. keep in mind that you can allways add more paint to the mix if you go too thin. and the coats go on really really thin, that is the key, like i said before you don't really have a true non transparent base until the 3rd or 4th coat.
There is no way i would try to roll on BC/CC it would definetly not work. that paint is ment to be atomized when sprayed, and you could never thin it down to the point where it does not run and is thin enough to apply. plus it would dry too fast with the correct reducers and flash over too quick. i think it would be impossible. when u just paint and sand, you're going to be sanding too much, and the paint is hard resulting in waves in the paint unless u sand really consistently, so the key is to lay it on thin and sand as little as possible, also when the paint layer is thin and the paint is thinned properly it "self levels" it's like bondo, u mix it up and it's just in a blob, let it sit for a few minutes and it flattens out, thats just what the paint does.

Last edited by 2point; 02/10/2008 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 06/29/2006, 02:32 PM   #2
Hurricane_Hung
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Default Re: DIY CHEAP Paint Job

it can be done.... but you get what u pay for..the quality might not even turn out good.
Painting the whole car takes alot of prep work it prep work is 85% of the work.
I mean its not even hard to paint it professionaly. All u really need is a spray gun and an air compressor, go out n buy your paint/clearCoat and just lay down the paint layer by layer. Before when i didnt know how to paint.. i use ta do it ghetto with spray cans and started painting my old car. It'll look nice for a while then i'll haunt you back with chips and cracks.

I"ve prep and painted everything on my rsx and it was done all in my garage. and its not a very fun project to do either.

like they say... " do it right the first time"

good luck on your DIY project


btw...it takes 1 gallon of primer, primer sealer, base coat, clear coat to paint the whole car. and u'll have to buy sandpaper, polishing compound and lil detail products....you add all those up and i'll cost around 400-600 easy.


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Old 06/29/2006, 04:58 PM   #3
2point
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Default Cost and parts list for Project

Rolling Project Cost Total Day to Day = $2800.oo
Rolling CAR parts cost = $2800.oo
Rolling Supplies Cost = $0.oo

Body kit parts

$2000 shipped- Front ITR conversion kit with Sideskirts
ITR front bumper
ITR front lip
ITR grille
ITR conversion fenders
ITR conversion Hood
ITR radiator support
Need - ITR bumper Support I
Need - ITR bumper Support II
Side Skirts
$800 - ITR headlights
Need - ITR headlight wireing kit/harness
Need - ITR sidemarker lights
Need - ITR sidemarker light harness

Paint

Brushes and paint application

Sandpaper

Tools

Wood for framing containment area and holding parts

Heater & heating pads

Plastic for containment area

Last edited by 2point; 11/03/2006 at 02:11 PM.
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Old 06/30/2006, 07:53 AM   #4
Hurricane_Hung
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Default Re: DIY CHEAP Paint Job

yea the paint needs to cure when its done.. most likely in pro shops they bake the paint in about 150 F for about 1 hr. But when ur doing it urself at home...it takes months for the paint to cure/dry completely.


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Old 11/02/2006, 10:53 AM   #5
2point
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Default Re: DIY CHEAP Paint Job

more paint links

http://www.maserati-rc.org/techtips/Techtip035.htm

http://ezinearticles.com/?How-To-Pai...-Car&id=155066

Cold weather Preperation

Cold weather is the Devil, but DIY projects in Iowa can't get away from this fact of life. If you don't have a good attatched garage, or even if you do, this information will come in handy. Paint doesn't like to flow well in the cold, below 60deg and you have small to large problems. Here are some ways to help your cold weather problem.

While painting in cold weather, you might need a space heater. How big of space heater will you need exactly though.

What is the size of the room or garage? go measure
This calculator fixes the ceiling height at 8ft. If you have taller ceilings, just add a foot to JUST ONE of the dimensions(smaller one ) and the calculation will still come out remotly close.

BTU calculator here:
http://www.hearth.com/cgi-bin/btucalc.pl

Buy here: Lowes, Home Depot, Sears

Oil/radiator/convection heater
I reccomend this type of heater for in the actual area you are going to paint b/c you can leave it on and it doesn't create a lot of air turbulance to mix up dust and overspray.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...ears&ihtoken=1

Outside your containment area, you might be able to get away with a cheaper type heater that will blow more air around. Remember though, dirt is the devil when painting a car.

Is your Paint cold?
Buy a heating pad and place it underneath the can(s)
Prices from $10 - $50 depending on size and features

Want to cure paint faster?
Turn up the heat in the garage
Cureing a small part or panel? Stick a heating blanket(s) over the top after the panel has sat for a minimum of 24hrs.

Last edited by 2point; 11/03/2006 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 11/02/2006, 03:31 PM   #6
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Default Re: DIY CHEAP Paint Job

I think if you are not a professional or have plenty of experience painting then u should leave it to the pro's...but if your willing to take a risk and it turns out good, then to ya!...P.S. I finally got around to painting my DC5 headlights today...their drying right now; can't wait to see them on the car...but anyway whatever you do "PLEASE" be very very patient when painting and don't rush! good luck

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Old 11/03/2006, 08:59 AM   #7
2point
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Default Re: DIY CHEAP Paint Job

Thanks for the advice anyone and everyone.

I am going to be doing a winter project, so this thread is going to get some posts on my progress and what not.

Please keep the comments and questions technically oriented and to a minimum.

You are not going to change my mind on this paint project unless you can hook me up with a shop paint the whole car for cheap and do a real nice job.

Last edited by 2point; 11/03/2006 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 11/03/2006, 01:57 PM   #8
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Default Supplies

http://stores.ebay.com/AutoPainterSupply

What sandpaper to use? I'm trying to source the sandpaper that I am going to use. Trying to find the cheapest deal.

These #s below will b adjusted later
Bondo - 80-150 grit

gen sanding 200 grit

finer detail - 400

wet papers 400-1200

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Old 11/03/2006, 02:27 PM   #9
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Default Calls - Contacts - Favors

Larson Collision - 515-232-3000
Car dropped off at 6:45 am 11/3/06
2:52pm 11/3/06 Wayne - Quote to pull front end to factor square = $300-400
Will not replace any parts - Expect car to be done Tuesday - Wed

11/6/06
Matt - M town - hookin it up with his experience in welding in a new radiator support and a place to actually get the job done.

11/6/06
I think I found the perfect garage near my Mom's house in Bondurant to do the body work. Garage is My Aunts, mother in Laws. Very large 2 car shat that doesn't get used. Old foggies can't any drive anyways. I'm gonna spot them $100 for the space and electricity.

Last edited by 2point; 11/06/2006 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 11/06/2006, 08:39 PM   #10
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Default Re: DIY CHEAP Paint Job

Thinking I might be goin BIG JDM

looky look



http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/p...ducts_id/14744

Anyone know if Options Auto Solon is reputable?
http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo....W-CDC201A-FBPF

They have the conversion parts I need so shipping will be saved and will kinda offset the high cost of some real C-west Quality Shit, if it actually IS real?

Last edited by 2point; 11/06/2006 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 11/08/2006, 06:23 PM   #11
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Default Re: DIY CHEAP Paint Job

Fahk, Lost the garage I needed

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Old 04/26/2008, 10:28 PM   #12
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Default Re: DIY CHEAP Paint Job

imi doing this right now, i dont have a garage so i do it outside, it is roll on so only thing i have to worry about is the wind, might pick up some dust but U WET sand it after every 2 coats so its not a biggy and the paint is EXTREMEly durable so it wont cchip that ezz and u can wet sand liek its a rock


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Old 03/26/2014, 11:10 AM   #13
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Default Re: DIY CHEAP Paint Job

painting a car is expensive. i wouldnt do it cheap tho

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Old 04/09/2014, 08:20 AM   #14
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Default Re: DIY CHEAP Paint Job

Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronB View Post
painting a car is expensive. i wouldnt do it cheap tho
Holy fuck dude, you need to seriously stop bumping old a fuck threads. Read the dates they were posted before you go bumping this old shit. Originally posted in 2006, last activity was 2008. That's some old shit right there.

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Old 04/18/2014, 11:52 AM   #15
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Default Re: DIY CHEAP Paint Job

He's a young fella... at least he's reading what the site has to offer... maybe just shouldn't leave an additional post. Either way I give him a head nod for reading material on here. Far better than those that join to sell items/cars.


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