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#1 |
JDM Fan
![]() Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Titonka iowa
Posts: 49
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Does anyone know if you have to have a different mount for the transmission when swapping from an auto to manual. I know you do with a civic but don't know about an accord
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#2 |
JDM Knight
![]() Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Indianola
Posts: 717
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http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ht=auto+manual
taken from the above link: MOUNTS Here I’ll go into the problems and confusion with the 5spd swap engine and tranny mounts. Regardless, you need the 5spd tranny mount for your car. The biggest concern for the mounts is that the engine does not sit straight or flat horizontally when you use the hole on the tranny bracket where the auto one went through. This makes the engine askew and will cause you to more likely break axles more often. The solution is a choice of two. 1) You can purchase the actual tranny bracket from Honda and unweld the auto one and reweld the 5spd one. 2) You can use an ExplicitSpeedPerformance Auto-to-Manual transmission mount. Now if you don’t have a welder handy it’s kind of hard to tow your car to and from a weld shop, so most people opt for the second and it has worked quite well. There’s quite a bit of conflict over the rear engine mount and bracket. The 5spd one has one extra hole near the middle of the bracket for an additional bolt from the engine to the tranny. The consensus is that LX and EX mounts separately and only matches up with mated LX and EX mount brackets i.e. LX mount--> LX bracket EX mount--> EX bracket. However, I was sent the wrong rear motor mount, and I ended up using my auto rear engine mount and bracket and it worked perfectly fine and my engine sits level and complete. The one less bolt shouldn’t be a concern because after all your auto tranny uses the same number of bolts as well. You keep the same front mount and driver’s side mount and wont need to undo them at all. If you undo the auto mount and use 5spd mounts, you can just undo the diaphragm and vacuum fittings and plug the ones that are attached to the mount. Then you would just bolt up the bracket and the mount. CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER/CLUTCH PEDAL the hole is precut and the spacers are already mounted to the firewall. (5th gen only) For the clutch master cylinder, you need to drill two mounting holes out (for the two studs on the master cylinder) and one large hole for the actual cylinder and plunger. On the cabin side, you will need to use two 12mm nuts as spacers on the master cylinder studs for it to sit right. The 5spd firewall has those spacers already prewelded in comparison to a nice flat firewall on the auto. Drill the two stud holes out. For the big plunger hole I just drilled fair sized holes all along the outside edge of the imprinted hole and then took a small drill bit to drill out the material in between each hole. Afterwards take a dremel to clean it up or some sandpaper. __________________ ![]() |
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#3 |
JDM Fan
![]() Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Titonka iowa
Posts: 49
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thank you very much sir
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#4 |
JDM Knight
![]() Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Indianola
Posts: 717
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not a problem always try helping fellow accorn owners
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#5 |
Newbie
![]() Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1
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first of all the cb7 ex's did not have vtec. the cd5 was the first accord in the U.S. to get vtec. now yes the engine and trans will bolt up but the swap to a standard will take some extra work. you will need the axles off the 93, the halfshaft, and all the transmission and hydraulic components.
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